Dog grooming has a language of its own. Whether you are a new groomer learning the trade or a pet owner trying to work out what your groomer means by a "number four all over" or a "lamb cut", the jargon can be confusing.
This guide collects more than 60 grooming terms and explains each one in plain English. It is written for Australian readers, so spellings and usage notes follow local convention.
What This Guide Covers
This glossary is organised into six categories so you can jump straight to what you need:
- Coat and skin types so you know what you are working with
- Cuts and styles including breed-standard looks like the Teddy Bear and Lion Cut
- Tools and equipment including how clipper blade numbers work
- Techniques and services from hand stripping to expressing glands
- Health and welfare terms every groomer and owner should recognise
- Business and booking terms clients will meet when they book
Coat type drives almost everything in grooming: how long a groom takes, which tools come out, and what a style will actually look like. If you only learn one section, make it the first one.
Coat and Skin Types
A dog's coat type is the starting point for every grooming decision. It determines brushing frequency, drying method, and whether a coat can be clipped or should be hand stripped.
| Term | What it means |
|---|---|
| Single coat | One layer of hair all over the dog, with no separate undercoat. It may be short, long, wavy or curly, but the hair is broadly the same throughout. Poodles and Maltese are single coated. |
| Double coat | Two layers: a dense, soft undercoat for insulation beneath a coarser outer layer of guard hairs. Common in breeds like the Border Collie, German Shepherd and Golden Retriever. |
| Undercoat | The soft, dense lower layer of a double coat. It traps air for warmth and is the layer that sheds heavily in season. |
| Guard hairs | The longer, coarser outer hairs that sit above the undercoat. They repel water and dirt and carry most of the coat's colour. |
| Wire coat (wiry coat) | A coat with stiff, coarse, bristly guard hairs over a softer undercoat. Typical of terriers and Schnauzers. Wire coats are traditionally hand stripped to keep their texture. |
| Curly coat | Tightly curled or wavy hair, as seen in Poodles and doodles. Low shedding but prone to matting, so it needs frequent brushing. |
| Silky coat | Long, fine, flowing hair with a smooth feel, as on a Yorkshire Terrier or Maltese. Tangles easily without regular brushing. |
| Smooth coat | Short, close-lying hair, as on a Boxer or Staffy. The lowest maintenance coat type, usually needing only a bath and brush. |
| Combination coat | A coat with different textures on different parts of the body, for example shorter hair on the body and longer feathering on the legs and ears. |
| Feathering | The longer fringe of hair on the ears, legs, belly and tail of some breeds, such as Spaniels and Setters. |
| Furnishings | The longer hair on the face, legs and body of breeds like the Schnauzer or Doodle, including the beard and eyebrows. |
Key Takeaway: Coat type, not breed name, decides the work. A matted single coat and a heavily shedding double coat need completely different tools and time, which is why two dogs of the same size can cost very different amounts to groom.
Cuts and Styles
A cut or style is the finished shape of the coat. Many styles started with breed-standard show looks and have since become everyday choices for pet owners.
| Term | What it means |
|---|---|
| Full groom | The complete service: bath, blow-dry, brush-out, haircut or trim to a chosen style, nail trim, ear clean and usually a sanitary trim. The exact steps vary by salon. |
| Bath and tidy (wash and tidy) | A bath, dry and brush with light tidying of the face, feet and sanitary area, but no full haircut. A common Australian booking option between full grooms. |
| Puppy cut | A simple, even cut that takes the coat to one short length all over the body. Despite the name, it suits dogs of any age. |
| Teddy Bear cut | A soft, rounded style with the face left fuller and shaped into a rounded "teddy bear" look. Most popular on curly and doodle coats. |
| Lion cut | The body is clipped short while the hair around the head, neck and often the tail tip is left long, creating a mane like a lion. Used on Poodles and, in summer, on some cats. |
| Kennel cut | A short, low-maintenance clip, usually under half an inch all over. It stays neat for longer and suits most breeds. |
| Lamb cut | Short hair on the body and chest with longer hair left on the legs, giving a soft, leggy outline like a lamb. |
| Top knot | The longer hair on the top of the head tied up or shaped to keep it out of the eyes, common on Shih Tzus, Maltese and Poodles. |
| Sanitary trim | A short trim of the hair around the private areas and under the tail for hygiene. Often included in a full groom rather than charged separately. |
| Summer cut (clip down) | A short all-over clip taken right back to reduce coat length, often requested in hot Australian months. Not recommended for double-coated breeds, as clipping can damage the coat. |
| Breed standard cut | A cut that follows the official breed pattern set by a kennel club, used mainly for showing. |
| Scissor finish | A style finished by hand with scissors rather than clippers, giving a softer, more shaped outline. Often used on doodle and Bichon coats. |
| Pom pom (bracelet) | Rounded puffs of hair left on the legs or tail, most associated with the show Poodle clip. |
Tools and Equipment
Knowing the tools helps owners understand what they are paying for and helps new groomers learn the trade. The most confusing part for many people is how clipper blades are numbered.
| Term | What it means |
|---|---|
| Clippers | The electric tool used to cut the coat to an even length, fitted with interchangeable blades. |
| Clipper blade numbers | Blades are numbered, and the number tells you how short the cut is. A lower number leaves more length and a higher number cuts shorter. |
| #3 blade | Leaves roughly 1.3 cm (about half an inch) of hair. One of the longer clip-down lengths. |
| #4 blade | Leaves roughly 9 mm (about three-eighths of an inch). A popular length for a tidy body clip. |
| #5 blade | Leaves roughly 6 mm (about a quarter of an inch). |
| #7 blade | Leaves roughly 3 mm (about an eighth of an inch). Useful on thicker coats. |
| #10 blade | Leaves roughly 1.5 mm (about a sixteenth of an inch). Commonly used for sanitary areas and under the belly. |
| #30 and #40 blades | Very short surgical-length blades, used for paw pads and close work. A #40 cuts closest to the skin. |
| Skip-tooth blade | A blade with alternating long and short teeth that moves bulk coat quickly but leaves a rougher finish. |
| Finish (full-tooth) blade | A blade with evenly spaced teeth that leaves a smoother finish than a skip-tooth blade of the same number. |
| Guard comb (snap-on comb) | A plastic or metal comb that clips over a short blade to leave more length, giving a range of cut lengths from one blade. |
| Slicker brush | A flat brush with fine, angled wire pins used to remove loose hair and tangles and to fluff the coat. |
| Pin brush | A brush with spaced, often round-tipped pins, used on longer coats to brush through without pulling. |
| Undercoat rake | A tool with a single row of long teeth that pulls loose undercoat out of double-coated dogs. |
| Dematting tool | A bladed comb that cuts through small mats and tangles to break them apart. |
| Stripping knife | A serrated, knife-shaped tool used for hand stripping and carding wire coats. It is used to grip and pull hair, not to cut. |
| Shears (scissors) | Sharp grooming scissors for shaping and finishing. Straight, curved and thinning shears each do a different job. |
| Thinning shears | Scissors with teeth on one or both blades that remove bulk and blend lines without leaving a hard edge. |
| Hydrobath | A bathing system that pumps warm water through a hose to wash deep into the coat and rinse the skin. Widely used in Australian mobile and salon grooming. |
| High-velocity dryer (HV dryer) | A powerful dryer that pushes a strong stream of air to blast water out of the coat, cut drying time and loosen shedding undercoat. |
| Cage dryer | A dryer mounted on or near a holding pen that dries a dog with gentle airflow while the groomer works on another dog. |
| Grooming table | A raised, non-slip table that brings the dog to working height, usually fitted with a restraint arm and loop. |
Techniques and Services
These are the actual jobs a groomer performs. Understanding them helps owners choose the right service and helps new groomers name what they are doing.
Bath and brush - A wash, dry and full brush-out with no haircut. Good for shedding control and general upkeep.
Blow-out - Drying the coat with a high-velocity dryer to straighten it, remove loose undercoat and prepare it for clipping or scissoring.
Brush-out - Working through the whole coat with a brush and comb to remove tangles and loose hair before bathing or cutting.
De-shedding - A treatment that removes large amounts of loose undercoat from double-coated dogs using rakes, an HV dryer and de-shedding shampoo, to reduce home shedding.
Hand stripping - Pulling dead guard hairs out of a wire coat by hand or with a stripping knife, in the direction the hair grows. It keeps the coat's coarse texture and rich colour, and is the traditional method for terriers and Schnauzers shown to breed standard.
Carding - Using a stripping knife or carding tool like a comb, held at an angle, to remove soft dead undercoat without pulling the wiry guard hairs. It keeps the topcoat lying flat.
Rolling the coat - Hand stripping a little at a time on a regular cycle so the coat always has hairs at different stages of growth, rather than stripping it all at once.
Scissoring - Shaping the coat by hand with shears to create a finished outline, used heavily on curly and doodle coats.
Clipping - Cutting the coat to an even length with electric clippers and a chosen blade or guard comb.
Expressing glands (expressing anal glands) - Gently emptying the two small scent glands either side of a dog's bottom. Many groomers offer this, though some owners prefer it done by a vet. Signs the glands need attention include scooting, licking and a strong fishy smell.
Nail trim (nail clipping) - Shortening the nails to a safe length so the dog stands and walks comfortably. The groomer trims up to, but not into, the quick.
Nail grinding (Dremel) - Filing the nails short and smooth with a rotary grinder instead of clippers, which can reduce sharp edges.
Ear cleaning - Wiping the outer ear and removing wax and debris, and on some breeds plucking hair from the ear canal opening.
Ear plucking - Removing hair from inside the ear canal opening on breeds that grow it, to improve airflow. Whether to pluck is a judgement call, so groomers weigh it up per dog.
Dental brushing (teeth cleaning) - A surface brush of the teeth offered as an add-on. It is cosmetic and does not replace a veterinary dental.
Stenciling and colouring - Cosmetic pet-safe dyeing or patterning of the coat. Less common and only ever done with products made for dogs.
Health and Welfare Terms
Grooming is as much about health as appearance. These terms describe the conditions and welfare issues groomers watch for and discuss with owners.
| Term | What it means |
|---|---|
| Matting | Hair that has tangled and knotted into a dense, felted mass. Mats trap moisture and dirt, pull on the skin, and can hide skin problems underneath. |
| Pelting | Severe, widespread matting where the matted coat has formed a solid layer against the skin. Pelted coats usually have to be clipped off short. |
| Humane de-matting | The welfare-led approach of clipping a badly matted coat short rather than causing pain by brushing mats out. Often guided by a "kindness over vanity" principle. |
| Hot spot | A red, moist, irritated patch of skin (acute moist dermatitis), often found hidden under matting during a groom. |
| The quick | The living part inside the nail that holds the blood supply and nerves. Cutting into it hurts and bleeds, so nails are trimmed up to it, not through it. |
| Quicking | Accidentally cutting into the quick. A small amount of bleeding is stopped with styptic powder. |
| Blowing coat (coat blow) | The heavy seasonal shed when a double-coated dog drops its undercoat, usually in spring and autumn. The coat looks patchy and needs frequent de-shedding. |
| Double coat damage (clipper alopecia) | Coat that grows back patchy, dull or woolly after a double coat has been clipped short, which is why clipping double coats is generally avoided. |
| Sensitivity (handling tolerance) | How comfortable a dog is being touched, restrained and groomed. Groomers note this so future grooms can be planned around it. |
| Muzzle (basket muzzle) | A safety device fitted to dogs that may bite, used so the groom can be done safely for both dog and groomer. |
| Brachycephalic | Flat-faced breeds such as Pugs and French Bulldogs. They overheat easily, so drying and handling are managed carefully. |
Key Takeaway: Matting is a welfare issue, not just a tidiness one. Once a coat is pelted, the kind option is often to clip it short and start again, which is why regular brushing at home between grooms matters so much.
Business and Booking Terms
These are the terms clients meet when they book and pay for a groom, and the ones groomers use to run a tidy diary.
| Term | What it means |
|---|---|
| Full groom | The complete service, as defined above. Usually the main booking type and the one most prices are built around. |
| Add-on | An extra service booked on top of the main groom, such as a teeth brush, nail grind, de-shedding treatment or a flea and tick wash. |
| Deposit | A part-payment taken when booking to secure the appointment, often deducted from the final price. |
| No-show | A booking where the client does not arrive and does not cancel. Many groomers apply a no-show fee, set out in their policy. |
| Cancellation policy | The rules on how much notice a client must give to change or cancel without a fee. |
| Intake form (client form) | The form a client fills in with their dog's details, health notes, allergies, behaviour and grooming preferences before the first visit. |
| Vaccination requirement | A salon's rule that dogs must be up to date on core vaccinations to be groomed, recorded against the pet's profile. |
| Coat condition assessment | The groomer's check of the coat at drop-off, including matting, which can change the service and price quoted. |
| Matting fee (de-matting surcharge) | An added charge for the extra time and care a heavily matted coat takes, usually flagged before work begins. |
| Grooming cycle (rebooking interval) | How often a dog needs grooming, often every four to eight weeks depending on coat and style. Many salons rebook on a set cycle. |
| Report card | A short summary of the visit shared with the owner, often with photos and notes on the dog's coat, skin and behaviour. |
| Quote | An estimated price given before the groom, which can change once the coat is assessed in person. |
For a deeper look at how these terms turn into real numbers, see our guides on how to price dog grooming services in Australia and how much dog grooming costs in Australia.
How Petboost Helps
Good grooming depends on remembering the detail. The terms above only stay useful if the right notes follow each dog from one visit to the next.
With Petboost, you can record custom attributes against every pet, including coat type, allergies, behaviour and preferred style. Your intake forms capture all of that at the first booking, so the next groomer who sees the dog knows exactly what they are working with. Every groom is then consistent, even across a team.
When the groom is done, you can send the owner a report card with photos and notes, so they can see how their dog went and what was done. It is a simple way to build trust and give owners a record they can act on at home.
If you run a grooming business, our grooming software overview shows how booking, records and payments fit together in one place.
The Bottom Line
Grooming has a vocabulary, but none of it is complicated once it is spelled out. Coat type sets the work, the cut sets the finished look, the tools and techniques do the job, and the welfare and booking terms keep both the dog and the diary in good shape.
If you want every one of these details captured against each pet automatically, so every groom is consistent and every owner is kept in the loop, Petboost can help.
Book a free demo → to see it in action, or start free and set up your first pet records today. Prefer to talk it through? Call Emily any time on 1800 291 005.
For a full breakdown of what Petboost includes, see our pricing.
Sources
- American Kennel Club, Everything You Need to Know About Hand-Stripping Dog Coats and How to Express Your Dog's Anal Glands
- American Kennel Club, What Is a Double Coat, and What Dog Breeds Are Double-Coated?